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When phrases like “post-apocalyptic androgyny” start cropping up in the reviews, you know Scorecard must be in Paris, that City of Light where men’s-wear designers have never been reluctant to engage in a little gender play. Thursday morning, La Roux got things rolling at Viktor & Rolf with a literally borrowed from Monsieur look for her performance, a theme later reversed by Alexis Mabille’s femmy floral appliqués. Yet when it comes to truly mind-bending performative subversions, critics concurred that Rick Owens’s boys who look like nuns in stripper heels carried the day.

Rick Owens
Designer: Rick Owens
Date and Location: Thursday, June 24, 8 boulevard de Bercy
Photos: slide show

• “Owens’s menacing-yet-ladylike models proved you can be at once gender-bending and utterly manly.” (The Associated Press)
• “It was all very dramatic.” (BBook.com)
• “Rocked sheik-y head accessories, Tarzan-ish one-shoulder tops, and some curiously futuristic but totally badass Hefty-bag–meets-Clydesdale footwear.” (The Cut)
• “This collection is another mix of seeming opposites: industrial yet ethereal; rugged yet fragile; devoid of color yet bold.” (GQ.com)
• “Mr. Owens’s mix of the raw and the refined gets more powerful each season.” (International Herald Tribune)
• “Owens mused, ‘There’s something poignant about people who devote themselves to a cause. I’m not there yet.’ Ah, but y’are, Rick, y’are.” (Style.com)
• “A collection that felt distinctly puritan.” (Vogue.com UK)
• “‘I wanted severe clothes made from beautiful fabrics,’ Owens said. Message heard, loud and clear.” (Women’s Wear Daily)

Alexis Mabille
Designer: Alexis Mabille
Date and Location: Thursday, June 24, 145 rue Saint-Honoré
Photos: slide show

• “In these hard times for retail, the French designer went out on a limb with this collection of romantic, body-baring looks that looked to have been made for gender-bending flower children with poetic souls.” (The Associated Press)
• “Alexis Mabille may be a secret ‘Hair: The Musical!’ fan.” (The Cut)
• “With daisies in their hair and sand dunes in the mind’s eye, the models at the Alexis Mabille show were a world away from the smartly dressed men in bowties who jump-started the designer’s career.” (International Herald Tribune)
• “Erred too far on the fey side.” (Style.com)
• “Too precious for even the most self-assured dandy.” (Women’s Wear Daily)

• “Working man meets post-Beat art star.” (GQ.com)
• “Snoop Dogg joined the designer’s pantheon of outlaw heroes — and fashion muses.” (Style.com)

Balmain
Designer: Christophe Decarnin
Date and Location: Thursday, June 24, 44, rue Fran?ois 1er
Photos: slide show

• “The ‘B’ for Balmain motif, half-covered by a rampant tiger, spelled out the once grand Paris couture house that the designer Christophe Decarnin has transformed into a hot property.” (International Herald Tribune)
• “This phenomenon keeps rolling at retail, especially in the U.S., and perhaps that explains the American high-school references like the varsity jacket and the panther mascot T-shirts (holey, of course.)” (Women’s Wear Daily)

Dries Van Noten
Designer: Dries Van Noten
Date and Location: Thursday, June 24, 34 quai d’Austerlitz
Photos: slide show

• “Skinhead chic.” (The Associated Press)
• “We got a fairly radical change of direction at Dries Van Noten — from chic restaurant and art gallery to funky street and late night club.” (Fashion Wire Daily)
• “This is ’80s Brooklyn meets Brussels (call it the BB-boy look).” (GQ.com)
• “The show lacked the romance that is Dries at his best.” (Style.com)
• “Intriguingly channeled skinhead style without resorting to too many punk clichés.” (Women’s Wear Daily)

Issey Miyake
Designer: Dai Fujiwara
Date and Location: Thursday, June 24, 11 rue Royale
Photos: slide show

• “In the list of collections with the most bizarre inspirations, Miyake’s trout-themed show ranked right up there.” (The Associated Press)
• “Mixes every print under the sun.” (The Cut)
• “Proportion play meets technical precision.” (GQ.com)
• “Intriguing was the sense of outfits made with hidden secrets, mimicking the fish’s ability to hide itself from predators.”(International Herald Tribune)
• “While the result was too scattered to be considered one of [Fujiwara's] best, it still left the viewer with some striking images — and some winning outfits.” (Style.com)
• “Quirky.” (Women’s Wear Daily)

Jean Paul Gaultier
Designer: Jean Paul Gaultier
Date and Location: Thursday, June 24, 325 rue Saint-Martin
Photos: slide show

• “A show that faintly dripped with retro sensuality.” (The Associated Press)
• “Virtuoso tailoring hidden in a provocative package.” (GQ.com)
• “I thought for half a second … that [Gaultier] was also commenting on the European’s relationship to Saharan Africa.” (On The Runway)
• “It was all quite elegant, of course, and also a bit subdued for JPG.” (Style.com)
• “A collection that offered as many marvels as a teeming souk.” (Women’s Wear Daily)

Louis Vuitton
Designers: Marc Jacobs and Paul Helbers
Date and Location: Thursday, June 24, 5 rue Curial
Photos: slide show

• “The luxury supernova looked east with a collection of sumptuous travel pieces embellished with Chinese touches that appeared aimed at its growing Asian customer base.” (The Associated Press)
• “Patterns to lust for.” (BBook.com)
• “A very patrician view of bohemia.” (Fashion Wire Daily)
• “These are clothes made for a businessman shuttling between meetings and continents.” (GQ.com)
• “The concept of cyberspace travel — going places without leaving your laptop — was the story behind the best show that designer Paul Helbers has done for Louis Vuitton.” (International Herald Tribune)
• “Incorporated hints of a pan-global sensibility into a look that was still very Louis Vuitton — quietly luxe clothes for the well-heeled contemporary traveler.” (Style.com)
• “Another must-see show.” (Vogue.com UK)
• “A garden of earthly delights.” (Women’s Wear Daily)

Viktor & Rolf Monsieur
Designers: Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren
Date and Location: Thursday, June 24, 20 boulevard Montmartre
Photos: slide show

• “Yet another surprise pick-me-up.” (BBook.com)
• “Lots of ’80s-inspired looks, all with a Mitteleuropean, spare and avant-garde feel.” (GQ.com)
• “The design duo followed their retro vision to the letter and to the lapel (wide, sequined or piped bandleader fancy).” (International Herald Tribune)
• “Viktor & Rolf’s design references are always quite explicit, but their application to the actual clothes can be somewhat obscure.” (Style.com)
• “Laid back formal dressing.” (Vogue.com UK)
• “[An] elegantly subdued collection.” (Women’s Wear Daily)

Yohji Yamamoto
Designer: Yohji Yamamoto
Date and Location: Thursday, June 24, 155 rue Saint-Martin
Photos: slide show

• “Cutting-edge samurai, all about movement and flow.” (GQ.com)
• “Whether you see a founding father, a mad Bavarian king or a Victorian poet, I suspect we are essentially looking for the same thing: a bit more character on the runway.” (On The Runway)
• “Looked like Mozart and his friends on acid.” (Style.com)
• “Updated visions of the oversized frock coats, breeches and cravats favored by the 18th-century Incroyables.” (Women’s Wear Daily)

See all of T’s Fashion Week coverage.

A tweetpic from T Magazine’s men’s fashion director, Bruce Pask.

“Limited-edition Lacoste shirt printed with an assemblage of Ming Dynasty porcelain shards by Li Xiaofeng.”